The Paragon GL series kilns are deluxe, professional, glass kilns. You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

And you can try Art Clay, bronze clay, copper clay, and PMC metal clays, glass clay, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, china painting, applying decals, dichroic glasses, enamelling, glass annealing, fusing, sagging and slumping, making jewellery, lost-wax casting, and work with many other materials and processes.

They're ideal for your arts centre, college, commercial glassworks, course venue, glass studio, school, or technical facility. Especially as they have a two-year warranty.

Cherry Heaven TV has made a short on-line slideshow featuring these popular kilns: click the Cherry Heaven TV player above. The slideshow starts with the Paragon GL-18ADTSD, and continues with the larger GL22, GL24, GL44, and GL64 variants.

To look at the pop-up photos, hold your mouse over the zoom buttons below: you don't need to click.

The Paragon GL-18ADTSD.

The Paragon GL-22ADTSD.

The Paragon GL-24ADTSD.

The Paragon GL-44ADTSD.

The Paragon GL-64ADTSD.

The Paragon Sentry 2.0 Programmer.

Lauscha By Carrie Fertig.

This comprehensive internet resource lets you research and compare kilns in your own time. There's a lot to read, but it'll help you make the right choice instead of an expensive mistake. The section about kiln furniture is very important.

For other large wired-in floor-standing and work-top kilns for casting, ceramics, glass work, heat treating, knife making, and pottery, stay here and use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page.

For smaller plug-in table-top kilns for annealing, beads, dichroics, enamelling, fusing, keepsakes, making jewellery, metal clays, and mixed-media work, transfer now to Electric Kilns using the Electric Kilns link above the menu bar near the top of the page.

But, before looking at the Paragon GL series in detail, here's a brief introduction to glass:

The main component of glass is silicon dioxide, often called silica: found naturally and plentifully as sand. When it melts, at around 1700°C, it's like syrup on a cold day. When it cools, it forms a rigid and brittle glass called quartz glass.

To lower the melting point, and the cost of melting, chemicals are added: typically sodium carbonate and calcium oxide. Other chemicals, and different heating and cooling processes, can produce a range of mechanical properties and colours.

Chemically, glass is classed as an amorphous solid: not a liquid, as is widely believed. As it's heated, it becomes softer allowing it to be bent, blown, coated, decorated, moulded, poured, or pressed.

A form of glass occurs naturally within the mouth of a volcano when the intense heat of an eruption melts sand to form Obsidian, a hard black glassy type of stone.

During annealing, fabrication stresses are relieved as the molecules cool and arrange themselves into a regular stable matrix. Successful annealing is the key to creating glasswork that will remain attractive and durable. It's quite a long process, so an automatic kiln is a must.

Dichroic glass has two different colours: a transmitted colour and a reflective colour, both of which change depending on the angle of view. For example blue-red will be blue in transmission and red in reflection.

During manufacture, quartz and metal oxides are vapourized onto the surface of the glass using a vacuum deposition process, forming a multi-layer crystal structure.

If two or more pieces of glass in contact are heated, they begin to soften and fuse together. With careful heating and cooling, the separate pieces of glass become one.

If glass is put on a mould and heated, it begins to soften and collapse, or sag, onto the mould: a common technique for making bowls and plates.

Sagging and slumping are often thought of as being the same. Correctly: during sagging, heated glass, supported at its edges, sags down in the middle to conform to a mould; during slumping, heated glass, supported at its middle, slumps down at its edges to conform to a mould.

If you're a beginner, you might have heard of lampworking. Very briefly, lampwork is the traditional name for glasswork that uses a gas torch to melt rods and tubes of clear and coloured glass. Once in a soft state, the shape is formed by turning and using tools.

Early lampworking was done in the flame of an oil lamp, with the artist blowing air into the flame through a pipe. Most artists today use torches that burn propane, natural gas, or butane, although kilns and glass clay are becoming increasingly popular.

Beads are usually made on steel rods, or mandrels. When the beads are finished, the rods are removed leaving holes for threading the beads. Cold working techniques can be used, such as etching, faceting, polishing, and sandblasting.

The Paragon GL series kilns are deluxe, professional, 925°C, four-sided, firebrick, glass kilns, with comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmers.

There are ten versions: the square, firebrick, front-opening GL18AD, GL18ADTSD, GL22AD, GL22ADTSD, GL24AD, and GL24ADTSD, and the rectangular, ceramic-fibre and firebrick, top-opening GL44AD. GL44ADTSD, GL64AD, and GL64ADST.

GL is an abbreviation for glass, and the numbers 18, 22, 24, 44, and 64 are the approximate internal widths in inches. Cryptically, the AD versions heat from the top, and the ADTSD versions heat from the top and all four sides.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

And you can try Art Clay, bronze clay, copper clay, and PMC metal clays, glass clay, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, china painting, applying decals, dichroic glasses, enamelling, glass annealing, fusing, sagging and slumping, making jewellery, lost-wax casting, and work with many other materials and processes.

If you want a different design of glass kiln such as clamshell or cylindrical, look at the CS series, Fusion series, and Pearl series. If you want a hotter kiln, for glass and ceramics, look at the Janus series.

It's important to understand that the GL and Pearl series are both deluxe, professional, glass kilns, so I've included the Pearl series in the specification table below, for comparison.

The Orton Sentry digital programmers allow you to set up multiple sequences, each one with multiple heating, holding, or cooling segments: so you can choose the heating and cooling rates, target temperatures, and hold times, save the sequences, and re-use them. There are no restrictive features such as single-sequence use or pre-set programmes.

Pre-set programmes might seem to be an advantage. However, having experimented and diversified, many people fire materials, or combinations of materials, at different temperatures and for different times than are recommended.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

The GL series heat from the top, or the top and all the sides. The elements are in pinless grooves in the firebrick, an important safety feature. However, never get careless: kilns are very hot and connected to the mains.

For help, or in the unlikely event of a fault, you can talk to an engineer in the UK. However, home checks, adjustments, and repairs are quick and easy, needing little more than a PoziDriv screwdriver, and you can watch an on-line video or call for help.

During firing, some materials release traces of toxic fumes which gradually diffuse into your room: the larger the kiln the more the fumes. A factory-fitted Orton Vent Master removes pollutants straight away and redirects them to the outside.

A fresh atmosphere in the kiln helps to minimise surface blemishes when firing clays and ensures brighter colours when firing glasses and glazes. It has little effect on the heating time, maximum temperature, or cooling time.

There's always a small gap, for expansion, around any kiln door or lid, so enough new air can be drawn in to replace the old air being drawn out. However, peepholes act as straight-through cold-air inlets: so you might not want them?

The UK vent motor is rated at 230V 132W, so it can use a regular mains socket. The suction cup and pipe are attached to the kiln but the motor can be remote: it doesn't get hot and the fan is easy to clean.

The VentMaster can be turned on and off manually. Alternatively, it can be plugged into the kiln's auxilliary power outlet and controlled by the programmer. The power outlet has to be fitted during manufacture, so decide before you order.

To learn more about the Orton Vent Master, use the main-menu link below the menu bar near the top of the page, then choose accessories, then firing, then scroll down.

There are various upgrades and options available, although not all of them will apply to all the kilns in this series. So, it's important to read these summary notes before looking at the individual kilns: and jot down anything that interests you. However, to help keep you on track, I'll repeat the upgrades and options when they're appropriate.

In the US, the door hinge is on the right. However, a left-hand hinge is usually better if you're right-handed: unless the kiln is going to stand in the right-hand corner of your room. Give this some thought, in case you order the wrong one.

Some kilns which heat from the top and sides can be re-engineered for a higher maximum temperature than the normal 925°C, for example 1095°C. If you're interested, mail or call.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so you could upgrade the standard firebrick lid to a factory-fitted ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre: or, as a luxury upgrade, with the elements completely embedded in the fibre.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so you could upgrade the standard electro-mechanical relay to a quiet, long-life, factory-fitted, mercury switch.

Some front-opening kilns are just too large and too heavy for a regular worktop. So Paragon makes a strong steel table, 768mm x 768mm x 718mm, with two shelves for your accessories. The luxury version, with castors, is 63mm taller.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

Every kiln comes with basic kiln furniture, included in the price, so that you can start work straight away. It's not an expensive collection that I've chosen for you, and that you have to pay for but might never use.

What you get depends on which kiln you choose, for example: a single shelf, two half-shelves, several shelves, a set of shelf posts, a knife-making rack, a bead-mandrel holder, glass separator, kiln wash, pyrometric cones, hot gloves, or other accessories.

If you're buying your first kiln, you're probably interested in one material, such as porcelain. However, after you've tried your kiln a few times and learnt more, it's very unlikely that you'll want to stay working with the same material, making the same-size pieces, one or two at a time.

So, it's very important to understand what's in the included furniture kit, why you might need additional shelf kits, and why you might need different accessories. And order them with your kiln.

When they're packed with the kiln, the delivery charge doesn't increase. Ordered later, not with the kiln, they need a box and protective packing and attract an extra delivery charge. Outside the UK mainland, this might be expensive.

A shelf protects the kiln floor if you accidentally spill or melt anything: so your work should always be on an appropriate shelf. And it's easier and safer to put in and take out small pieces together on a shelf rather than individually.

When working with glass and multi-part firings, the elements turn on and off repeatedly during the heating, holding, and cooling segments. In a small kiln, any sudden temperature changes can make glass crack as it expands and contracts. The heat stored in a thick heavy shelf evens out these fluctuations. So, an appropriate shelf is a must.

Depending on the sizes of your pieces and how many you want to fire at one go, several shelves can be stacked up to make better use of your kiln time: so you might want more than one shelf kit.

Shelf kits often include a set of 25mm x 25mm x 12mm shelf posts, When flat, they're 12mm high: on their sides, they're 25mm high. So you can choose the shelf spacing which best suits your work.

Although they look tough, most ceramics break if they're dropped, so it's a good idea to have spare shelves, especially if your business depends on your kiln or you're running courses.

For dichroics, enamelling, and glass fusing, put kiln paper on the shelf to stop the glass sticking: it's simpler and cleaner to use than glass separator. Bullseye Thinfire shelf paper, probably the most popular, ensures easy separation between your glass and the kiln shelf. One side feels slightly smoother than the other: that's the glass side.

Generally, glasswork needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf than between closely stacked shelves, although experienced glass artists often use several shelves succesfully.

You can learn more about ceramic blocks, ceramic cloths, dust masks, glare-resistant glasses, glass separatorn, heat-resistant gloves, kiln wash, protective glasses, shelf paper, tools, and accessories, using the main-menu link below the menu bar near the top of the page, then choosing accessories. And, along with extra shelf kits, they're in the on-line shop.

The Paragon GL18ADTSD is a deluxe, professional, glass kiln. It's a 925°C, square, firebrick, front-opening kiln, with a comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmer. It's a tough, solid, robust kiln, made for years of continual firing.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

And you can try Art Clay, bronze clay, copper clay, and PMC metal clays, glass clay, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, china painting, applying decals, dichroic glasses, enamelling, glass annealing, fusing, sagging and slumping, making jewellery, lost-wax casting, and work with many other materials and processes.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 4800W, so it needs a 21A wired-in power supply. To comply with EU safety regulations, it's fitted with an additional switch that cuts off the power when the door is opened. The shipping weight is about 141Kg.

The outer steel case measures 876mm x 711mm x 648mm, including the programmer housing, four lifting handles, and other hardware, and has two wide-view peepholes in one of the sides.

The firebrick firing chamber measures measures 457mm x 457mm x 330mm internally, and heats from the top, the sides, the back, and the door, with the fast-firing elements in grooves in the 76mm thick firebricks.

The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

In the US, the door hinge is on the right. However, a left-hand hinge is usually better if you're right-handed: unless the kiln is going to stand in the right-hand corner of your room. Give this some thought, in case you order the wrong one.

Some kilns which heat from the top and sides can be re-engineered for a higher maximum temperature than the normal 925°C, for example 1095°C. If you're interested, mail or call.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so you could upgrade the standard firebrick lid to a factory-fitted ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre: or, as a luxury upgrade, with the elements completely embedded in the fibre.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so you could upgrade the standard electro-mechanical relay to a quiet, long-life, factory-fitted, mercury switch.

Some front-opening kilns are just too large and too heavy for a regular worktop. So Paragon makes a strong steel table, 768mm x 768mm x 718mm, with two shelves for your accessories. The luxury version, with castors, is 63mm taller.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options. Apart from that, the GL-18AD is the same as the GL-18ADTSD.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

There's a recommended kit, included in the price: one substantial square 432mm x 432mm x 15mm cordierite shelf, four 12mm shelf posts, and 450gm of glass separator.

There are two extra kits, not included in the price, which might help you make the best use of your kiln's internal space: one square 432mm x 432mm x 15mm shelf and four posts, or two half-square 432mm x 216mm x 15mm shelves and eight posts. Depending on how you want to arrange the shelves, you can choose different height posts, up to 250mm.

The Paragon GL22ADTSD is a deluxe, professional, glass kiln. It's a 925°C, square, firebrick, front-opening kiln, with a comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmer. It's a tough, solid, robust kiln, made for years of continual firing.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

And you can try Art Clay, bronze clay, copper clay, and PMC metal clays, glass clay, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, china painting, applying decals, dichroic glasses, enamelling, glass annealing, fusing, sagging and slumping, making jewellery, lost-wax casting, and work with many other materials and processes.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 11000W, so it needs a 48A wired-in power supply. To comply with EU safety regulations, it's fitted with an additional switch that cuts off the power when the door is opened. The shipping weight is about 152Kg.

The outer steel case measures 953mm x 762mm x 585mm, including the programmer housing, four lifting handles, and other hardware, and has two wide-view peepholes in one of the sides.

The firebrick firing chamber measures measures 533mm x 533mm x 337mm internally, and heats from the top, the sides, the back, and the door, with the fast-firing elements in grooves in the 76mm thick firebricks.

The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

In the US, the door hinge is on the right. However, a left-hand hinge is usually better if you're right-handed: unless the kiln is going to stand in the right-hand corner of your room. Give this some thought, in case you order the wrong one.

Some kilns which heat from the top and sides can be re-engineered for a higher maximum temperature than the normal 925°C, for example 1095°C. If you're interested, mail or call.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so you could upgrade the standard firebrick lid to a factory-fitted ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre: or, as a luxury upgrade, with the elements completely embedded in the fibre.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so you could upgrade the standard electro-mechanical relay to a quiet, long-life, factory-fitted, mercury switch.

Some front-opening kilns are just too large and too heavy for a regular worktop. So Paragon makes a strong steel table, 768mm x 768mm x 718mm, with two shelves for your accessories. The luxury version, with castors, is 63mm taller.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options. Apart from that, the GL-22AD is the same as the GL-22ADTSD.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

The GL-22 has nearly the same power rating as the GL-24 but, as it's only about three quarters of the volume, it heats up more quickly: useful if you want to repeat firings.

There's a recommended kit, included in the price: one substantial square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm cordierite shelf, four 12mm shelf posts, and 450gm of glass separator.

There are two extra kits, not included in the price, which might help you make the best use of your kiln's internal space: one square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm shelf and four posts, or two half-square 508mm x 254mm x 15mm shelves and eight posts. Depending on how you want to arrange the shelves, you can choose different height posts, up to 250mm.

The Paragon GL24ADTSD is a deluxe, professional, glass kiln. It's a 925°C, square, firebrick, front-opening kiln, with a comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmer. It's a tough, solid, robust kiln, made for years of continual firing.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

And you can try Art Clay, bronze clay, copper clay, and PMC metal clays, glass clay, Accent Gold, Metal Clay Veneer, china painting, applying decals, dichroic glasses, enamelling, glass annealing, fusing, sagging and slumping, making jewellery, lost-wax casting, and work with many other materials and processes.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 10800W, so it needs a 47A wired-in power supply. To comply with EU safety regulations, it's fitted with an additional switch that cuts off the power when the door is opened. The shipping weight is about 181Kg.

The outer steel case measures 1029mm x 813mm x 750mm, including the programmer housing, four lifting handles, and other hardware, and has two wide-view peepholes in one of the sides.

The firebrick firing chamber measures measures 610mm x 572mm x 381mm internally, and heats from the top, the sides, the back, and the door, with the fast-firing elements in grooves in the 76mm thick firebricks. The heating elements are driven by quiet, long-life, mercury switches, instead of the normal electro-mechanical relays.

The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

In the US, the door hinge is on the right. However, a left-hand hinge is usually better if you're right-handed: unless the kiln is going to stand in the right-hand corner of your room. Give this some thought, in case you order the wrong one.

Some kilns which heat from the top and sides can be re-engineered for a higher maximum temperature than the normal 925°C, for example 1095°C. If you're interested, mail or call.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so you could upgrade the standard firebrick lid to a factory-fitted ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre: or, as a luxury upgrade, with the elements completely embedded in the fibre.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so quiet, long-life, mercury switches are fitted as standard

Some front-opening kilns are just too large and too heavy for a regular worktop. So Paragon makes a strong steel table, 768mm x 768mm x 718mm, with two shelves for your accessories. The luxury version, with castors, is 63mm taller.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options. Apart from that, the GL-24AD is the same as the GL-24ADTSD.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

The GL-22 has nearly the same power rating as the GL-24 but, as it's only about three quarters of the volume, it heats up more quickly: useful if you want to repeat firings.

There's a recommended kit, included in the price: one substantial square 559mm x 559mm x 25mm cordierite shelf, four 12mm shelf posts, and 450gm of glass separator.

There are two extra kits, not included in the price, which might help you make the best use of your kiln's internal space: one square 559mm x 559mm x 25mm shelf and four posts, or two half-square 559mm x 280mm x 15mm shelves and eight posts. Depending on how you want to arrange the shelves, you can choose different height posts, up to 250mm.

The Paragon GL44ADTSD is a deluxe, professional, glass kiln. It's a 925°C, rectangular, ceramic fibre and firebrick, top opening kiln, with a comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmer. It's a tough, solid, robust kiln, made for years of continual firing.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 11500W, so it needs a 48A wired-in power supply. To comply with EU safety regulations, it's fitted with an additional switch that cuts off the power when the door is opened. The shipping weight is about 388Kg.

The outer steel case measures 1423mm x 712mm x 1016mm, including the programmer housing, six legs, and other hardware, and has four wide-view peepholes in the front. The easy-lift lid has spring-loaded counter-balanced hinges: so no ceiling pulleys and wires.

The firebrick firing chamber measures 1118mm x 559mm x 407mm internally, and heats from the top and all sides, with the fast-firing elements in grooves in the 102mm thick top ceramic fibre-board and the 64mm thick side firebricks. The heating elements are driven by quiet, long-life, mercury switches, instead of the normal electro-mechanical relays.

The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

The six legs can have heavy-duty lockable castors factory-fitted, so decide before you order. If the floor is uneven, mark the floor or use some metal shims.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so a ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre is fitted as standard.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so quiet, long-life, mercury switches are fitted as standard

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options. Apart from that, the GL-44AD is the same as the GL-44ADTSD.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

There's a recommended kit, included in the price: two substantial square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm cordierite shelves, eight 12mm shelf posts, and 900gm of glass separator.

There are two extra kits, not included in the price, which might help you make the best use of your kiln's internal space: one square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm shelf and four posts, or two half-square 508mm x 254mm x 15mm shelves and eight posts. Depending on how you want to arrange the shelves, you can choose different height posts, up to 250mm.

The Paragon GL64ADTSD is a deluxe, professional, glass kiln. It's a 925°C, rectangular, ceramic fibre and firebrick, top opening kiln, with a comprehensive, ten segment ramp-hold, Sentry 12-key digital programmer. It's a tough, solid, robust kiln, made for years of continual firing.

You can make architectural components, bowls, curved windows, figures, flat panels, glass-art, lampshades, platters, stained glass designs, and tiles, as unique hand-crafted pieces or as repeatable stock for retail.

The UK kiln is rated at 230V 16500W, so it needs a 75A wired-in power supply. To comply with EU safety regulations, it's fitted with an additional switch that cuts off the power when the top is opened. The shipping weight is about 521Kg.

The outer steel case measures 1930mm x 711mm x 1016mm, including the programmer housing, six legs, and other hardware, and has eight wide-view peepholes in the front. The easy-lift lid has spring-loaded counter-balanced hinges: so no ceiling pulleys and wires.

The firebrick firing chamber measures 1626mm x 559mm x 407mm internally, and heats from the top and all sides, with the fast-firing elements in grooves in the 102mm thick top ceramic fibre-board and the 64mm thick side firebricks. The heating elements are driven by quiet, long-life, mercury switches, instead of the normal electro-mechanical relays.

The electronic display prompts for heating rate, target temperature, and hold time, making it easy to set up and re-use accurate heating, holding, and cooling sequences.

The six legs can have heavy-duty lockable castors factory-fitted, so decide before you order. If the floor is uneven, mark the floor or use some metal shims.

The programmer has a power-ratio programmer feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution over larger pieces.

The programmer can be connected to your computer through a factory-fitted RS232 to USB interface. The Control Master software allows you to control and monitor the firing, and analyse, arrange, print out, and save the data.

Serious glass artists are always concerned about firebrick dust from the lid falling onto their work, so a ceramic-fibre lid with the elements threaded through pinless grooves in the fibre is fitted as standard.

During long firing sequences the programmer continually adjusts the temperature by turning the elements on and off. In a peaceful studio, the clicks of the relay might be disturbing, so quiet, long-life, mercury switches are fitted as standard

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

When you look into a red-hot kiln, it's very important to wear glare-resistant glasses which protect you from IR and UV.

Kilns which only heat from the top, as opposed to the top and sides, don't have the power-ratio feature and can't have a maximum-temperature upgrade. However, the initial cost-saving has to be offset against fewer firing options. Apart from that, the GL-64AD is the same as the GL-64ADTSD.

The kilns in this series can be re-engineered for 200V, 208V, or 240V, single phase or three phase, or 480V three phase. If you're interested, mail or call.

There's a recommended kit, included in the price: three substantial square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm cordierite shelves, twelve 12mm shelf posts, and 1350gm of glass separator.

There are two extra kits, not included in the price, which might help you make the best use of your kiln's internal space: one square 508mm x 508mm x 25mm shelf and four posts, or two half-square 508mm x 254mm x 15mm shelves and eight posts. Depending on how you want to arrange the shelves, you can choose different height posts, up to 250mm.

The internet is packed full with inaccuracies: accidental or intentional. There are unsubstantiated claims that whatever is being sold is the best or the cheapest or both, and it's being sold by the largest dealer or the premier distributor.

Choosing the right kiln is important: it might prove to be an expensive mistake if it doesn't have an automatic digital programmer, isn't large enough inside, has to run near its maximum temperature most of the time, or isn't very versatile. So, here are a few facts that you can easily check for yourself, based on the specifications and prices in January 2011:

Almost every broadly comparable kiln that I researched was considerably more expensive and, typically, didn't include something: a comprehensive programmer, a complete shelf set, easy-lift lids, kiln vent options, the EU legally-necessary lid or door cut-off switch, VAT, or delivery. So let's just look at what you get, rather than what you don't:

First of all, there are options: left or right-hand doors, ceramic-fibre lids, easy-lift spring-loaded counter-balanced lids, bead-annealing doors, viewing windows, peepholes, mercury relays, kiln vents, auxilliary power outputs, RS232 computer interfaces, castors, steel kiln tables, different shelf kits ... it all amounts to a much better deal.

The programmers are very sophisticated and will do everything you're likely to want to do. On the ADTSD versions, the programmer has a power-ratio feature: you can adjust the heat balance between the top and sides in 10% steps and control the heat distribution for larger pieces.

The expensive heavy-gauge nickel-plated copper wiring is covered with high temperature glass-braided insulation. The thermocouple, which senses temperature inside the kiln, is protected with a high-nickel stainless steel sheath for long life. The lid elements are in pinless grooves.

For help, or in the unlikely event of a fault, you can talk to an engineer in the UK. However, home checks, adjustments, and repairs are quick and easy, needing little more than a PoziDriv screwdriver, and you can watch an on-line video or call for help. And the Paragon GL series all have a two-year warranty.

Running costs are low, as ceramic fibre and firebrick are effective insulators. However, in any comparison, the wattage is not the only cost-indicator: it depends on the set temperature, the heat-up time during a ramp, the number and duration of off-periods during a hold, and the interior useable volume of the kiln.

It should be self-evident that there are more kilns, and more variations of those kilns, here at Electric Kilns and Paragon Kilns than on any other UK, and probably EU, internet resource. And, if you want a 1230°C version of a 1095°C kiln, we'll often be able to get one made for you.

If you need help choosing or have a specific project, mail or call. However, all the kilns are described on their own pages.

Paragon kilns have been re-engineered and comprehensively tested for use in the UK, the EU, and most other countries. They're CE Marked and comply with EU safety standards.

They use regular single-phase 230V mains, so have 230V EU elements: not 120V US elements. However, the maximum temperature, set by the programmer, is the same.

The digital programmer shows degrees Celsius, not degrees Fahrenheit as in the US. If you need to convert, this is how to do it.

The heating elements are either embedded in ceramic fibre, or the kiln has a door or a lid cut-off switch: an important safety feature. However, never get careless: kilns are very hot and connected to the mains.

A sheathed thermocouple replaces the normal US bead-style. It prevents the possible corrosion, and eventual failure, of the bi-metallic tip: usually caused by gases produced whilst heating some types of glass.

A lever door catch replaces the normal ball catch. The ball catch was difficult to adust, being either too tight or too loose, whereas the lever catch can easily be tightened, loosened, bent slightly, or removed and straightened, to allow for use and preference.

Generally, programmable kilns work like this: as soon as the programme starts the kiln heats up. The thermocouple tells the programmer the current temperature and, depending on the programme, the programmer switches the elements on or off to control the heating or cooling rate and, eventually, the target temperature.

When the target temperature is reached, the programmer switches the elements off. However, residual heat in the firing chamber allows the internal temperature to overshoot the target temperature briefly before starting to fall back.

This overshoot is more noticeable at low temperatures than at high temperatures. For example: 300°C will probably overshoot to 330°C whereas 800°C will probably only overshoot to 805°C before starting to fall back.

During the hold-time, with the elements still off, the internal temperature falls. When the programmer switches the elements back on, the firing chamber will initially absorb some of the new heat before the temperature recovers. The continual switching of the elements on and off causes the internal temperature to cycle around the target temperature.

Regardless of the thermocouple temperature, the actual temperature of your work will slightly different, depending on its position on the kiln shelf, the vertical spacing of any stacked shelves, and its nearness to the elements, a lid, a door, a bead door, a window, or a peephole. Learn to take it into account if you're working with temperature-critical materials or processes.

Remember that glass needs radiant heat and will fuse, sag, or slump better on one shelf at the bottom than between closely stacked shelves.

Kiln doors and lids are not meant to be a perfect fit otherwise, at high temperatures, there'd be no room for expansion and the door could stick and the ceramic-fibre or firebricks could crack.

All kilns smell a bit during the first few firings, just like a toaster or a fan heater. If you're worried about fumes, open a window.

Eventually, with normal use, kilns discolour slightly, inside and outside, and some firebricks might develop hairline cracks. Your kiln is a versatile, robust, red-hot tool: not an ornament.

Using your kiln successfully needs careful research and frequent tests, especially as things that work for your friends or teachers might not work in the same way for you. It's also very important to learn how to creatively use unexpected effects. So, keep a firing log:

Buy a durable notebook. Use a new page for every firing, and draw diagrams of the shelves, their vertical spacing, and the position of your work on the shelves. Along with your work, put a few scraps at different places on the shelves to learn how things fire or change. Describe the material, the shape of your work, the firing cycle, and the end result.

A kiln log is vital if you're experimenting with temperature-sensitive materials, or working with coloured dichroic glasses, enamels, glazes, or paints, and a skilled artist will use the kiln log to advantage to re-create effects.

It'll be particularly useful if you have to repeat a commission, or you have a long holiday before returning to your studio.

There are two popular makes of silver clay: Art Clay made by Aida Chemical Industries and PMC made by Mitsubishi Materials Corporation, in Japan. They're both clay-like materials made of fine silver powder and water-soluble organic binders.

Art Clay Silver and PMC Silver, sometimes just called silver clay, metal clay, or precious-metal clay, are easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold-time.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid 999 silver: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

Although we chose to work with, sell, and provide classes in Art Clay, both makes fire in a similar way. So any kiln suitable for Art Clay will be just as good for PMC.

If you're currently using PMC, try Art Clay. There are differences in the feel, the shrinkage, the strength, the surface lustre, the product range, the pricing, and the general commercial setup if you're running a serious business.

Currently, in January 2012, 50 gms of PMC+ Silver Clay from the UK distributor costs about 37% more than Art Clay Silver Clay. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are three popular makes of bronze clay: Bronze Clay made by ClayMania, BronzClay made by Metal Adventures, and Prometheus Bronze ProClay made by Odak. They're all clay-like materials made of fine bronze powder and water-soluble organic binders. However, they're fired in different ways:

Prometheus Bronze Clay is easy to fire: wrap your dried work in kitchen tissue or ceramic cloth, put it on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. It can also be fired in charcoal.

Clay Mania Bronze Clay and MetalAdventures BronzClay fire in a special way. Fired normally, the surface would oxidise so, to minimize this, they're embedded in activated charcoal granules in a covered stainless steel container. Charcoal made from coconut shells produces a natural bronze colour, and charcoal made from coal produces a colourful range of patinas.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid bronze, an alloy of 89% copper and 11% tin: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

The stainless steel container for the Paragon SC-2 measures 162mm x 176mm x 100mm, and holds 1 litre of charcoal. To fire larger pieces, or more pieces at the same time, you'll need a larger kiln, such as the Paragon Xpress E-12A. The container for the E-12A measures 265mm x 162mm x 152mm and holds 3 litres of charcoal.

The 1230°C firebrick E12A costs more than the 1095°C ceramic-fibre SC2. However, it's two and a half times larger than the SC-2 and is a versatile mixed-media kiln suited to continual high temperatures.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

I can't recommend one clay as being the best. There are differences in the feel, the firing, the shrinkage, the strength, and the surface patinas, so try them and experiment: they're not expensive.
However, as Prometheus Bronze Clay is easy to fire and costs less than the others, try it first? It comes as 100gm of soft clay in a packet, or 10gm of creamy clay in a syringe with three tips that you can cut or shape.

There's also Creative Bronze, which is almost certainly Prometheus Bronze Clay renamed. I'll leave it you to work out why ProBronze is £19.75 for 100gm with no delivery charge and Creative Bronze is £24.95 plus £4.95 shipping.

Currently, in January 2012, 100gms of Art Clay Silver Clay costs about 1100% more than Prometheus Bronze Clay and PMC+ Silver Clay costs at least 1370% more. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

So, if you're still in the learning phase, you can try out ideas before possibly wasting your expensive silver clay. However, bronze is a beautiful metal so, as with many materials, you need to exploit its qualities and try to produce beautiful original pieces.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are four popular makes of copper clay: Art Clay Copper made by Aida Chemical Industries, Copper Clay made by ClayMania, CopprClay made by Metal Adventures, and Prometheus Copper ProClay made by Odak. They're all clay-like materials made of fine copper powder and water-soluble organic binders. However, they're fired in different ways:

Clay Mania Copper Clay and MetalAdventures CopprClay fire in a special way. Fired normally, the surface would oxidise so, to minimize this, they're embedded in activated charcoal granules in a covered stainless steel container. Charcoal made from coconut shells produces a natural copper colour.

Art Clay Copper is easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. In most kilns, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time: so you might want more than one.

Prometheus Copper Clay is easy to fire: wrap your dried work in kitchen tissue or ceramic cloth, put it on a kiln shelf, and programme the temperature and hold time. It can also be fired in charcoal.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid copper: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

The stainless steel container for the Paragon SC-2 measures 162mm x 176mm x 100mm, and holds 1 litre of charcoal. To fire larger pieces, or more pieces at the same time, you'll need a larger kiln, such as the Paragon Xpress E-12A. The container for the E-12A measures 265mm x 162mm x 152mm and holds 3 litres of charcoal.

The 1230°C firebrick E12A costs more than the 1095°C ceramic-fibre SC2. However, it's two and a half times larger than the SC-2 and is a versatile mixed-media kiln suited to continual high temperatures.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

I can't recommend one clay as being the best. There are differences in the feel, the firing, the shrinkage, the strength, and the surface patinas, so try them and experiment: they're not expensive.
However, as Prometheus Copper Clay is easy to fire and costs less than the others, try it first? It comes as 100gm of soft clay in a packet, or 10gm of creamy clay in a syringe with three tips that you can cut or shape.

There's also Creative Copper, which is almost certainly Prometheus Copper Clay renamed. I'll leave it you to work out why ProCopper is £19.75 for 100gm with no delivery charge and Creative Copper is £24.95 plus £4.95 shipping.

Currently, in January 2012, 100gms of Art Clay Silver Clay costs about 1100% more than Prometheus Copper Clay and PMC+ Silver Clay costs at least 1370% more. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

So, if you're still in the learning phase, you can try out ideas before possibly wasting your expensive silver clay. However, bronze is a beautiful metal so, as with many materials, you need to exploit its qualities and try to produce beautiful original pieces.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

GlasClay is made by ClayMania in vibrant colours, based on glasses from Bullseye and Oruboros. It's a clay-like material made of fine glass powder and water-soluble organic binders. It's sold as a box of twelve colours in 12gm pots.

The colours in the table below are a rough guide, and the clay powder, mixed powders, fused glass, and re-fused glass will not all look the same. They're all COE90: read this pop-up.

As it's fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the glass powder fuses, leaving solid glass: real glass, not something that just looks like glass.

GlasClay is easy to fire: put your dried pieces on some ceramic shelf-paper on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold time.

GlasClay can be shaped easily. You can make three-dimensional objects and free yourself from the constraint of working with flat glass. The size is only determined by the support you can give it. Perhaps the most exciting opportunity is to make your own beads without a torch.

The firing temperature and time are important: glass clays have to fuse, not melt. There's a difference between fusing and melting: During fusing, the binder in the glass clay vapourises and the glass powder particles bond to make solid glass. During melting, the glass powder particles liquify and lose their original clay-shape.

Particulates represent a health risk if they're breathed in, so wear a HEPA mask when cleaning out your kiln, mixing kiln wash, and working with charcoals, ceramic-fibre blocks, cloths, and papers. And, ideally, use protective glasses.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

There are two popular makes of gold clay: Art Clay made by Aida Chemical Industries and PMC made by Mitsubishi Materials Corporation, in Japan. They're both clay-like materials made of fine gold powder and water-soluble organic binders.

Art Clay Gold and PMC Gold, sometimes just called gold clay, metal clay, or precious-metal clay, are easy to fire: put your dried work on a kiln shelf and programme the temperature and hold-time.

As they're fired, the binders vapourise, releasing very small amounts of non-toxic carbon dioxide and water, and the metal powder sinters, leaving solid 22 carat gold: real metal, not something that just looks like metal.

Although Paragon kilns include a durable shelf kit so that you can start work straight away, several shelves can be stacked to make better use of your time and reduce the unit-cost of firing: so you might want more than one.

Although we chose to work with, sell, and provide classes in Art Clay, both makes fire in a similar way. So any kiln suitable for Art Clay will be just as good for PMC.

If you're currently using PMC, try Art Clay. There are differences in the feel, the shrinkage, the strength, the surface lustre, the product range, the pricing, and the general commercial setup if you're running a serious business.

Currently, in January 2012, 50 gms of PMC Gold Clay from the UK distributor costs about 60% more than Art Clay Gold Clay. If anyone would like to comment on this, let me know and provide a reference.

To learn more, use the links below the menu bar near the top of the page. You can buy ArtClay, bronzeclay, copperclay, glassclay, goldclay, and related products in the on-line shop.

The Kitiki Studio provides a comprehensive Art Clay educational programme as classes, masterclasses, workshops, and Art Clay Level 1 and Level 2 teacher-certification courses, as well as classes for related materials and techniques.

Arts and crafts events, introductory workshops, studio open-days, guest-teacher masterclasses, and general jewellery courses, are often added. If you're interested, mail or call.

This is a Cherry Heaven on-line shop and an EU distributor, sales, support, spares, and repair centre for kilns: it's not a bead, ceramics, crafts, glass, or metal-clay shop, selling a few kilns to a market niche.

Although it's an internet resource, you can still mail or call an engineer about kilns, power supplies, home diagnostics, repairs, spares, safety issues, a special project, or reselling opportunities.

This internet resource belongs to Cherry Heaven, a shop in Corfe Castle village near the National Trust Estate. Cherry Heaven sells a diverse selection of exclusive essentials and luxuries.

Cherry Heaven is an EU distributor for Paragon Kilns made in Texas, USA, and has been commended for an outstanding performance as one of Paragon's top-selling distributors over 2007 to : a pleasing outcome since the UK is only one third the area of Texas and one fortieth the area of the US.

Cherry Heaven offers a comprehensive range of popular products:

Paragon Industries started as a family business in 1948. It's now the world's leading manufacturer of electric kilns and furnaces and has built over 380 000. The 4 800 square metre site, in Mesquite, Texas, has over 70 full-time staff.

During manufacture, every kiln is checked at every stage by a technician and signed-off before shipping. They're simply but robustly engineered, so you're buying a comprehensive, low-cost, safe, versatile kiln: a kiln with a future.

Paragon kilns conform to the demanding UL 499 standard in the US, and are CE Marked for the EU. Paragon is Greek for Model Of Perfection.

The on-line shop link is below the menu bar near the top of the page. Unlike most internet shops, you won't have to create an account, log on, register, remember a password, sign up, join a club, look up your membershp number, or volunteer your personal and debit card details to discover that, at the last moment, the total is more than you expected because the VAT and a delivery charge were obscured. Alternatively, visit Cherry Heaven in Corfe Castle village.